If you are dealing with a bigger rust problem, you can try the following:. Of course, it is possible to find commercial products to remove rust as well.
You can also purchase rust proofing products from retailers such as Halfords. These can be a great way to keep your DIY tools safe, especially if you store them outdoors in your garage or shed. Here we offer two ways to quickly and easily bust that rust. Choose an effective scrubbing material when dealing with light to moderate surface rust problems.
Deeper rust issues may require more than just muscle, but this physical solution is a good first step. Start by cleaning the rusted tools in soapy water to remove dirt and grease. Then, rinse the tools with water and dry thoroughly. For light rust, scrub the surface with a scouring pad, sandpaper, or steel wool. Always start with the coarsest abrasive to remove the built-up rust and pockmarks, then switch to a finer grit to smooth out the grooves caused by the coarse grit. For more serious rust problems, coat the surface of the tools with kerosene to function as a cutting lubricant.
Wait several minutes. Then, attach a wire wheel to an electric drill to buff away the stubborn rust. Finish off with fine-grain sandpaper to remove any leftover residue.
If the surface rust is gone, your work is done. But if the problem persists, you may need a stronger chemical solution. When you want to save yourself some energy, oxalic acid offers an effective chemical-based treatment for dissolving light to moderate rust problems.
NOTE: Oily treatments to keep leather supple and waterproof do little to preserve collectables. But they do attract dust and insects. Then hit it with neats-foot oil. Paper - old comic-books, documents, the Declaration of Independence etc. Just DON'T do it! Iz'it true the British call erasers 'rubbers'? If it is valuable, this is where you want to consult with an expert. The folks at Gaylord Brothers take this business pretty seriously.
They also offer excellent on-line free! Preservation Resources for all things paper. If you get heavy handed with the eraser and tear a page do NOT slap Scotch-tape over the tear. The tape will eventually turn to slime.
Repair it from the back if you must, and use something from Gaylord Brothers to do it right. Photographs: Solvent: distilled water Abrasive: cotton swabs NOTE: Understand that photographic prints were and still are developed in chemicals dissolved in water, to a little distilled water might be all it takes to get the coffee stains off without damaging the picture. But -as always- start slowly -in an uninteresting corner for instance.
Only buy the ones that don't smell. Or -if you must- use a soft lead pencil and write as lightly as possible. If this don't get it done, replace the cat-litter and do it again. I include this tip because it would probably work for many smelly collectables. This is a topic that is too simple and too complicated at the same time. If it's your kid's soccer jersey, toss in the washing machine with whatever laundry soap you have been using to clean it all season. Then mount if carefully in one of my UV proof Jersey Cases.
If it's Elvis' actual underpants, use Woolite. Or not, but I don't want to hear about it. If it's your wedding dress tuck it away in archival safe materials. If you smeared wedding-cake-frosting down the front and then got it all sweated-up, have it dry cleaned and THEN tuck it away in archival safe materials. If it's great-great-gram'ma's wedding dress, remember that buttons were made from celluloid many years ago and need to be dealt with as if they were volatile, -because they ARE volatile.
Get rid of it by moistening the stain in lemon juice and salt, let it dry in the sun, mildew hates the sun. If this doesn't work, try hydrogen peroxide more sun, but expect some fading. Abrasive: or Steel wool NOTE: Turn your steel wool pad often and throw it out well before you think it is done.
A clogged steel wool pad can scratch a nice finish. After you have your item clean, use a brand-new steel wool pad to put on a thin layer of wax. Buff it out with an old cotton sock -probably a clean one would be best.
Shift the rag periodically and replace it when it gets dirty. Abrasive: Cotton wipes. NOTE: The problem with cleaning wood is that it is porous and the dirt can hide-out in the pores. Wear white gloves while you do so and store it carefully so it doesn't get dirty again. You might also consider using a plastic kitchen scouring pad and nothing else -except elbow-grease. You will be sanding your collectable -sort-of, but only sanding the schmutz and not the wood.
Clean, turn,. Do NOT use steel wool on raw wood unless you want to give the wood a battleship grey steel patina. Shoe polish -brown, black, or Cordova -whichever most closely matches the wood's color. Polish it with wax paper.
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